We always have to be careful to not always offer cheesy, chickeny things and pastay things,” because such dishes might push away customers with more advanced palates, says John Caron, president of Olive Garden, known for its unlimited salad and breadsticks.

On the menu, dishes like a mix of seafood in a white wine and marinara-saffron broth served with toasted ciabatta bread are aimed at “a group that knows food,” says Mr. Caron. Overall preference for the dish is “relatively low,” says Mr. Caron, but its flavor and $16.25 price point attract a crucial clientele.